[HAM] Fire In the Hole!OF scott195 at centurytel.netMon Nov 6 09:06:16 CST 2006
At 02:37 PM 11/5/2006, pete mazich wrote: >scott wrote: > >I was checking the high voltage at one of the 6550s. I touched the probe to > >one of the pins, and suddenly.....a little fireball was born. Hey Pete! Good to see you! >Damn! A potential "burning man" sitch (I hope you had one hand in >your pocket). Nope, I had the other hand on the other probe to ground. This made me realize that it would be a good idea to have clip leads on my meter. > > What he had done was replace the 10K input resistors > >at pins 1 and 6 with 6.6 Ks. > > > * Makes me wonder if he even had a schematic- sounds like he was > >thinking "guitar amp input" here- Since he had to have removed the old resistors first, I guess he would have had a clue. > >The four .005 MFD caps at the 6550s in both amps had been replaced with > >round ceramic caps. Oy veh. > >Ceramic=cheap: they'll definitely work in that position but as far as >the sound.....poop on a stick. When I rebuild guitar amps (and any >other tube amps for that matter), I replace *all* of the ceramics w/ >polyprops (whether they need it or not) and it always improves their >tone noticeably (the only exception tone-wise being AC suppressor >caps on stand-by switches- here, ceramics work great). OK, here's where I admit that I don't know nuttin'. I just assumed the discs were a bad idea because I haven't seen them used commonly in that position. They looked as if they had suffered some heat degradation. As to what came in a brand-new 122 amp, I have no idea. But I have a hard time buying the idea that different cap types can change the tone. I mean, they all do the same thing: capacitate. > The beauty of all these Leslie amps is in their simplicity; most >"hot-rod" mods I have seen are an attempt to get more *gain* out of >the amp rather than headroom. No matter what you do, you're not going >to get much more than 40 watts out of em' w/ the stock tranny's. Yup. My 31H has extra power and headroom because it has a larger, non-stock power tranny, so a higher B+ actually works. > The >best and most practical mods (IMHO) are the ones that try and achieve >the latter (also less noise), and these could/should include: larger >filter caps w/ a slightly higher voltage rating and/or distributed >capacitance (two or more caps in parallel for the desired capacitance >rather than one), flame-proof metal-oxide resistors in the power >supply, tight-twisted wiring pairs in the power supply and audio >section (also, layout of the wires makes a lot of difference in the >noise floor), Yes. I had a 122 go into RF oscillation, in part because the wiring wasn't dressed just right, close to the chassis. I like Uncle Harv's mod advice best: these amps were well-designed to begin with and there really aren't any mods that improve them. --Wet Blanket
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