[HAM] Question about gasoline or petrol for cleaning Tonewheel Generators

[Steve Leigh]

At 10:20 AM 4/21/2007, you wrote:
>Steve Leigh wrote;
> >Gasoline or alcohol based reducers are safe - strong,
> >aggressive chemicals are not.
>
>Hi Steve and everyone.
>The term ''gasoline'' is not used in Australia. Here down under we use
>the term ''petrol'' for the automobile  fuel.
>
>Does the term ''gasoline''  refer to leaded petrol  or unleaded petrol
>or both ?

Both, though unleaded is difficult to find in the US anymore, due to 
automotive emission regulations.

>Is there any potential problem with residue left behind when using
>leaded petrol to clean the TG  or is it better to use unleaded petrol ?

In the manner which *we* used petrol, so much compressed air followed 
it, that there was nothing left behind of any significance.  I'd say 
either will work fine, as long as sufficient compressed air is 
available.  Maybe the motto is, "use it quick, get rid of it quicker".

An example: the 32 fiber insulators from the scanner (inner and 
outer).  We used to soak them in a bowl of gas (petrol), scrub them 
with a toothbrush, then string them on a piece of 12 ga. solid wire, 
and blast them with air for who-knows-how-long.  A long, LONG time, 
until they were dry.  Once dry, they were painted, to seal the 
material against the possibility of becoming soaked with oil, and 
thus becoming conductors.  I think pictures of this can be seen on my website.

Petrol, too, is world famous for gumming up, tuning into shellac, 
and, in general, ruining carburetors - but only if it's left to 
oxidize and evaporate over time.  The manner in which we used petrol 
never gave the petrol the time to do these things - it was used to 
reduce and clean, then blown away with tremendous amounts of 
compressed air immediately.

>How safe is kerosene and mineral turpentine to clean the TG ?

I don't know.  Because I had the availability of both alcohol based 
cleaners and petrol, there was no real need for me to try other chemicals.

>Am I correct in my assumption that acetone will melt the enamel of the
>pickup wires and the motor wires

I believe yes.  I never used acetone for any purpose that  can recall 
- it was another chemical that just never entered my shop.

>and that it  will melt the pickup
>bobbins and the plastic oil funnels and also damage the TG capacitor's
>plastic casings ?

Again, I think yes.  Others can answer this more accurately than I can.

Important addition .... NOTHING except spray alcohol and air got near 
the pickups themselves.  Many parts of a generator are quite easy to 
replace, but a pickup is truly a nightmare.  I wouldn't risk harming 
a pickup coil under any circumstances.

An old trick:  All this compressed air peels off some (often many) of 
the numbered stickers on the pickup coils.  I used to get in the 
generator with a pair of tweezers and remove them all.  (Very 
carefully.)  I certainly didn't want these small bits of numbered 
adhesive tape inside the generator once the work was complete, as 
there was no way of telling where they might end up.

Another old trick:  I didn't use the funnels on the 
generator.  Instead, I had a small ziplock bag in each of my 
Hammonds, containing a 35cc syringe, a length of clear plastic 
tubing, and a rounded end 18 ga. needle.  Oil was introduced to the 
generator directly into the trough at the start motor and run motor ends.
Under no circumstances did I use Hammond oil.  I found another 
source, Singer Sewing Machines, and used Alpha-Sew - a very pure, 
crystal clear oil, which seemed to have a lower viscosity than any 
oil I've tried.  Fond old memories include buying out the local 
Singer store of about 11 quart bottles of this oil.  If I recall, 
Alpha-Sew cost about $4.98 per quart.

Over oiling:  I believe in it wholeheartedly.  It damages 
nothing.  If oil is literally dripping from the generator bolts (the 
lowest point on the generator when everything's assembled), it's easy 
enough to wipe up with a paper towel, and it's proof positive that 
the oiling "system" is working correctly.







Steve Leigh  :::  steve at sl-prokeys.com
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