[HAM] Can't get M-3 to wind up...

[Ed Greany]

Hi Jack,
   
  I think the answer is OIL.
  Be sure your little reservoir at the scanner run motor has oil. Fill it half way and let it set for 24-48 hours. Turn it by hand occasionally.
  Refil all the cups 3/4 way and try a start up.
  I would replace that start switch asap with a momentary switch.
  Good luck. M3s are difficult to destroy.
   
  Ed

jack larose <apeheadqwerty at yahoo.com> wrote:
  Hello,I suppose an introduction is in order considering this
is my first post. I play classic rock, and as such, love the sound and
versatility of the tonewheel organ family. At the local church I play
at, someone had donated an M-3 spinet and Leslie. The organ's TG was 
not working. Since the poor folks at the church had a 200 lb
paper-weight cluttering things up, I volunteered to take it off their
hands. They stubbornly kept the Leslie, but I don't think they can
make the quantum leap to power it separately, so I'm fairly confident
I'll be taking that off their hands soon as well. Anyways, back to the
M-3. The start motor seems to be working fine (this is my first
attempt at Hammond repair, so some of these conclusions are nothing
more than educated guesses). The gears engage okay, and the TG turns
pretty darn fast, but as soon as the "run" switch is engaged, the TG
shaft slows to a halt, the starts gears grind a bit, and then stop as
well. I disconnected the springs from the TG shaft, and spun the wheel
on the synchronous motor, and it seems fairly free-spinning (slows to a
stop in about 1-2 seconds). Then engaged the "run" switch without
engaging "start" and tried to spin the wheel on the synchronous motor,
felt a definite resistance. Measured R90, about 245 ohms. Measured
line voltage at the back terminal, 120 volts AC. Tried to measure
synchronous motor resistance, but didn't really understand the
instructions on the Benton electronics website, or on the HammondWiki. 
The only anomalies I really came across were some of the oiling strings
are frayed or completely disconnected, and the "start" switch is not a
"momentary on" switch, it just stays on or off. This test was done
with no tubes in the amp. 



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