[HAM] Can't get M-3 to wind up...

[Frank O. Pistohl]

Hi.

According to your description, it might be just a matter of lubrication. Try
to reconnect the oil-strings and add some Hammond Oil (1 teaspoon max.) or
put a little oil directly into the oil-pans above the tonewheel. Let it soak
in for a while and then try to spin it manualy at first, and if it does
so engage the starter motor and try again.

Frank

On Mon, Jun 23, 2008 at 11:17 PM, jack larose <apeheadqwerty at yahoo.com>
wrote:

> Hello,I suppose an introduction is in order considering this
> is my first post.  I play classic rock, and as such, love the sound and
> versatility of the tonewheel organ family.  At the local church I play
> at, someone had donated an M-3 spinet and Leslie.  The organ's TG was
> not working.  Since the poor folks at the church had a 200 lb
> paper-weight cluttering things up, I volunteered to take it off their
> hands.  They stubbornly kept the Leslie, but I don't think they can
> make the quantum leap to power it separately, so I'm fairly confident
> I'll be taking that off their hands soon as well.  Anyways, back to the
> M-3.  The start motor seems to be working fine (this is my first
> attempt at Hammond repair, so some of these conclusions are nothing
> more than educated guesses).  The gears engage okay, and the TG turns
> pretty darn fast, but as soon as the "run" switch is engaged, the TG
> shaft slows to a halt, the starts gears grind a bit, and then stop as
> well.  I disconnected the springs from the TG shaft, and spun the wheel
> on the synchronous motor, and it seems fairly free-spinning (slows to a
> stop in about 1-2 seconds).  Then engaged the "run" switch without
> engaging "start" and tried to spin the wheel on the synchronous motor,
> felt a definite resistance.  Measured R90, about 245 ohms.  Measured
> line voltage at the back terminal, 120 volts AC.  Tried to measure
> synchronous motor resistance, but didn't really understand the
> instructions on the Benton electronics website, or on the HammondWiki.
> The only anomalies I really came across were some of the oiling strings
> are frayed or completely disconnected, and the "start" switch is not a
> "momentary on" switch, it just stays on or off.  This test was done
> with no tubes in the amp.
>
>
>
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